Messy and Picky

Way back during restaurant week, we decided on a whim to get a day-of reservation somewhere. . . anywhere. After a few calls to some fully booked restaurants, we got lucky at Loie Brasserie and Bar. So we got dolled up and strolled over to the restaurant just north of Rittenhouse Square and were seated promptly in a rear booth. The booths have nice high backs which kept the noise from the booth behind Picky's back to a minimum. It seemed as if we were seated right under an AC vent though as we were both cold and feeling a draft for the duration of our meal.

Our server pleasantly assisted Messy in picking out a glass of wine - she went with a sauvignon blanc - while Picky went with a bottle of Anchor Steam and a glass. Our two drinks along with a couple glasses of water came out quickly, but our appetizer and entree took some serious time to make their way to our table. Picky noted that the water tasted like the glasses hadn't been rinsed properly, still chalky, so he nurssed the Anchor Steam throughout the meal.

Messy started off with the summer soup sampler consisting of espresso cups full of golden tomato gazpacho, roasted beet borscht and a classic vichyssoise served atop a folded napkin on a rectangular plate. Having seen vichyssoise on numerous menus but never tried it, Messy knew she had to take a chance. Now Messy knows why she never tried it: cold, creamy leek soup is not that appealing. It was, however, more appealing than the other two soups. The golden tomato gazpacho tasted very much like salad dressing, and the beet borscht — well, honestly, what was she thinking ordering a cold pureed beet soup?

Picky went with a gratinée lobster gnocchi with zucchini, tomato and toasted bread crumbs which was served in a half-inch high by four-inch in diameter circular tin. The lobster chunks were delicious, but the portion was laughable. The gnocchi was fine, but it wasn't anything special.

When the entrees arrived, about half an hour after we were through with out appetizers, we both stared in disbelief at Messy's heirloom tomato tarte tatin with fresh buffalo mozzarella, baby greens and basil pistou. When Messy first saw the choice on the entree menu, having no idea what "tarte" or "tatin" means, she was expecting something somewhat substantial — maybe an heirloom tomato stuffed with cheese with a side salad and some crusty slices of bread. Not so — It was all of two slices of tomato and a little drop of mozzarella underneath a small pile of sprout-like greens. It was, basically a serving barely passable as an appetizer masquerading as an entree. However, it might have been the best two slices of tomato and cheese Messy has ever had in her life — it was seriously delicious. Unfortunately, she ate it in all of three or four bites and was left to ogle Picky's completely incomparably-sized meal.

Picky wisely went with an entree with the size clearly labelled on the menu: steak frites: 10 oz. delmonico steak with house-made mushroom Worcestershire, pommes frites, and roasted garlic aioli. The steak came out just as he ordered, medium rare, which was a good way to start out. [Picky's had too many burgers and steaks come out overcooked so a simple correct temperature of meat always makes him happy.] The mound of frites was larger than Messy's entire meal from start to finish. The platter came with a small crock of mayonnaise dipping sauce which was not to Picky's liking so Messy took it for herself as she dipped away with the frites while Picky opted for the plain ketchup. The steak was delicious and a decent size. The mushrooms were a nice texture, not rubbery, not slimy, just right.

For the final course, Messy went with a chocolate-hazelnut cheesecake with blackberry coulis which was easily the largest portion she had all meal. It was very good, but quite rich and too much for her to eat all by herself. Picky kindly volunteered his fork to help out. Picky wanted the crème brulée, but they were all out by the time we ordered so he opted for a puff pastry with custard filling instead. The pastry wasn't easy to cut. It took some effort to get all the way through it each time, on the slightly mushy side as if it were sitting out all day.

Messy **1/2
Picky ***

The final word: Don't expect to go home full, but do expect some good eats.

Loie Brasserie & Bar
128 S. 19TH STREET
PHILADELPHIA, PA 19103
PHONE: 215.568.0808