Author Archive

Stuffed Pork Chop

Wednesday, January 26th, 2011

stuffed pork chop
Ain't that a beautiful sight? We get these amazing pork chops from Countytime Farm out in Hamburg, PA (about 30 minutes north of Reading). Paul Crivellaro delivers them fresh about once a month to the farmstand and when they come in fresh, they're kept fresh for a couple of days before we put them in the freezers for safe storage. Stuffed pork chops are something I always thought were a fancy item and something that took a long time to make. Good god was I wrong.

Step one is get your hands on some thick-cut pork chops (about 1" thick). I highly recommend these Countrytime pork chops. Paul raises some incredible hogs. From the site:

The "Big Black" pigs we raise on our farm were called Devon or Cornwall pigs from their area of origin in England, but now are a registered rare heritage breed named "Large Black Hog" and are hardy, docile and friendly foraging hogs that feed from pasture vegetation and grains. Because they are slow to mature, they aren’t the type of animal that produces uniformly injected flavor, chemically treated meat one may find at large supermarkets, but alternatively are appreciated for tasty succulent meat and excel cured as artisanal bacon.

"Tasty succulent meat" ditto.

Two-packs run roughly $10 – $15 so you'll get 2 solid meals out of them. I cook them, cut them in half and take them in for lunch so I actually get more than 2 meals out of them. If you get them fresh, that will save you some time, but you'll have to make them quickly before the meat's no good. I'd stick meat in the freezer by day 5. If you get a frozen chop, put it on a plate and in your fridge overnight. It'll be ready to handle by dinner prep time. Once you have a defrosted chop, take it out of the fridge and bring it to room temperature. While you're waiting, do your prep work. Ah, what should you stuff into your chops? I think apples are great, but not here. I went with onion, shallot, garlic and habanero peppers. In addition to that, I coated each side with coarse salt, fresh ground pepper, sage and rosemary. I also prefer the awesomeness of cast iron, but any oven-safe skillet will do.

The prep: preheat your oven to 400&deg:F. Chop up half an onion, finely slice up a shallot and finely slice a habanero, mince a clove of garlic. In a little mortar and pestle, portion out a couple pinches of rosemary and sage and give them a grind. Once the chops are at room temperature, hold the chop on the bone end with your non-cutting hand. Take a sharp knife and cut a pocket on the fat side running the length of the side. You may need to do some maneuvering to cut out the inside of the pocket some more. Salt and pepper and rub the herbs into each side of the chops. Get some heat going under your skillet. Add in some olive oil and once hot, add in the onion and shallots. Cook those down for a minute and add in the garlic and habanero. Cook them down until your kitchen smells lovely and then dump the goods into a bowl and place the skillet back over the flame. Now the fun part.

Stand up the chops, bone side down, and open up that pocket. Now stuff the chop with the hot onion, shallot, garlic, habanero mixture. This will get easier after you've done it a few times. Overstuff it a bit, don't worry. Now put the stuffed chops into the skillet and cook each side for about 4 minutes until a nice crust develops. Stick the entire skillet into the oven to finish off for another 8 minutes. Take them out and marvel at how easy that was. Let them sit and rest for a few minutes before digging in.

Farm Tours: Green Meadow Farm

Thursday, November 11th, 2010

farm tours: green meadow farm
The last stop on our day long tour was Green Meadow Farm in Gap, PA. Glenn Brendle, the man behind the 29-year-old farm, proudly brought us right to the literal heart of the farm: the biodiesel shack. Oh yes. Biodiesel. Free fuel! Brendle is a pioneer in the field with no special training. He started gathering up the grease from the restaurants he delivered his specialty produce to and went to work. Year by year, he's increased his savings through biodiesel investments. The large farm equipment is all on biodiesel, the greenhouses are headed using biodiesel and he's working on getting the whole operation fully off the grid once he finishes up converting his diesel generator.

As Brendle opened up the door to the shack, out wafted that fry-o-lator smell. A friend of ours has a biodiesel car in LA and we rode in it when we visited 3 summers ago. This smelled like that, but more so. It's not an offensive smell, just a smell that means, oil is up in here. Have you ever been to a big deep fry party? Well, we have, a few times, and the smell in the deep fry party is more overwhelming than this shack which was powering the entire farm.

farm tours: green meadow farm
We walked with Glenn to his greenhouses where he can grow his produce year round. Above is a champagne grape vine – gorgeous eh? He also has tons of concord grapes on the property which are super sweet.

farm tours: green meadow farm
So into the greenhouses. There were all kinds of goodies all around. He and his crew grow all kinds of micro greens, herbs, tomatoes… Above is a shot of Glenn and one of the Farmstand's awesome volunteers, Jamie, strolling through one of the greenhouses.

farm tours: green meadow farm
And a 12' banana tree! That's half of a banana leaf on the right there. The banana tree hasn't produced any fruit yet, but it's there, growing and getting huge!

farm tours: green meadow farm
Just outside the door from the banana tree were more goodies. Citrus plants. Lemons, blood oranges, kaffir limes. These were grown just outside of the greenhouses warmed by the residual heat and protected from the wind. On another part of the property, Brendle has a bunch of paw paw trees growing.

farm tours: green meadow farm
We ventured into the original greenhouse which Brendle made from lots of found materials. He mentioned lots of found railroad ties and iron piping for the hoops. That incredible stretch of rosemary in the photo above was awesome. It was about 7' X 30' and it smelled decadent.

farm tours: green meadow farm
This passion fruit blossom caught the eye of everyone who went into the hot house. It was quite dazzling to see up close. Layer upon layer of stuff going on in every which direction you could see.

farm tours: green meadow farm
The entire farm was so idyllic it was almost sickening. I was walking with my co-worker Emily, complaining about gorgeous every square inch of the entire plot was and we passed by this scene. A group of steps overgrown with grass, flanked by lush greenery.

farm tours: green meadow farm
We walked down the road a bit to get to one of the several acres of garden. Above is a row of corn which was just starting to come up.

farm tours: green meadow farm
Here's Glenn talking to one of my co-workers, Jennie, about the crops on this little plot.

farm tours: green meadow farm
Here's the gang of tour goers crossing a little creek back to the farm house. Three Black Angus steer followed us back through the field. They were a bit camera shy.

farm tours: green meadow farm
Back inside the Brendle house we came across the most awesome range we've ever seen. An antique range, that the Brendles found on the side of the road, and brought home and restored to beautiful working condition. It's a Clark Jewel Lorain Oven Heat Regulator and it's in perfect working condition. Glen fixed it all up.

farm tours: green meadow farm
And here's my co-worker Nate with a new friend which I found and promptly stuck on his shirt.

Farm Tours: Meadow Run Farm

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

farm tours: meadow run farm
The second stop of the day (first stop at Smucker's Meats) on the Lancaster Tour was to Meadow Run Farm, in Lititz, PA, whose tagline is "Uncommonly Good Meat & Eggs" which we can personally attest to being 100% truthful. We've been enjoying their top quality products for the last 3 years. The chance to visit the farm where the products were raised was an honor.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Our caravan of cars pulled into the driveway and we were greeted by a gaggle of geese enjoying the shade of a tree on this super hot day. The tour was smack in the middle of Philly's record breaking run of 80°+ days; this day was well over 90°.

farm tours: meadow run farm
A few steps onto the property and we spotted a barn where farmhands were gathering up the sheep. Sheep are an odd looking bunch if you look at them for a bit. The rest of the sheep were out on pasture, but these were in the barn, but we're not sure why.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Above are Philip and Dee Horst-Landis showing us our way to our chariots. You'll notice that Philip is using arm braces, yep, he's a paraplegic, who runs a farm with cattle, sheep and poultry. So, back to the chariots. You can see in the photo above a tractor and a big quad with trailers hitched to them. We got a hayride tour! Oh yeah.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Our first stop was to see the sheep out on pasture. We got off the tractor and Philip lead us to the electrified fence which kept the sheep in a big pasture. The sheep were moved around so that the land was grazed evenly. I forget the exact cycle, but cattle, pigs, sheep and chickens all go through the fields.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Here's Philip pointing to one of the sheep out in the field telling us how many times each animal can go through the field. He said that with their husbandry practices, they're able to pick out the sheep which get sick earlier than on a conventional farm. Their loss rate (sheep are prone to parasites) is remarkably low compared to industry averages.

farm tours: meadow run farm
He went out to the artificial shade constructed for the sheep to give them a quick check. Philip told us that the sheep needed a structure like this because they only eat during the day. If it's too hot outside, they wouldn't be able to eat as much given the heat. So, they can rest under the shade, get a drink of water, and graze. Cattle, on the other hand, don't mind eating at night.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Here's a shot of some of my co-workers, friends and loved ones in the back of Philip's tractor. It was a nice ride throughout. I think it was my first hayride in decades.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Our next stop was to the broiler chickens. Chickens are raised in two categories on a farm: layers and broilers. The layers have been bred for the quantity of eggs they produce. Broilers have been bred to get bigger. These broilers aren't looking too happy, but it's not from a lack of care – it's just over 90° outside. They're kept in movable tent structures so they can graze on fresh grass each day. Chickens are naturally supposed to be out on pasture, eating grass and grubs. Eating what they're supposed to be eating leads to those awesomely golden, orangey colored yolks, not the wan, pallid light yellow yolks you get from cooped up chickens. We didn't have a chance to make it over to where the layers were kept as we were running out of time.

farm tours: meadow run farm
We hopped back into the trailers and over to the pig pens. Meadow Run raises Berkshire hogs. Pink, brown, black, spotted… all different kinds were scattered through 6 or so pens to keep them out of the oppressive heat.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Little piglets were kept separate from the bigger bodies. They seemed content with that.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Here's Dee hosing off the hogs. Pigs don't have sweat glands and that's why they're often covered or are wallowing in mud – it keeps them cool!

farm tours: meadow run farm
And here's my favorite shot of this visit. That pig is grinning ear to ear from the shower of cool water it's getting.

farm tours: meadow run farm
Here's a farming tidbit you won't learn everywhere. Most conventional farms dock the tails (cut them off) of pigs to prevent them from biting each other. Well, pigs are a pretty hierarchical group and nipping is part of what they do. It's when they get all nasty and sick from being pumped with needless hormones when they get nasty with pus-seeping wounds from their tails.

farm tours: meadow run farm
We took one turn by another barn full of sheep before heading back to the front of the farm where we regrouped and went off to our next stop.

farm tours: meadow run farm
We cooled off by going into their farmstore which was immaculate – and on the honor system. This little box contained some cash and checks written to Marcus Horst, Dee's father. You could pick up what you needed, write down what you took (so they could do inventory easier) and head out!

farm tours: meadow run farm
Five clear top chest freezers full of poultry, beef and lamb/mutton. The yellow fridge in the back was full of their prized eggs. They raise a few different kinds of layers, but the most prized eggs are those from the araucana which lays gorgeous blue-green eggs.

The farmstand carries a bunch of Meadow Run products including broiler chickens, stewing hens (what you need for coq au vin), chicken wings, beef cubes, beef stir fry strips, lamb cubes, lamb rib/loin chops, lamb stew meat, lamb sholuders/legs, lamb and chicken offal, lard, ham hocks and three types of delicious sausage: merguez, chorizo and plain. And then there are the eggs which come in a gorgeous brown or those rich green-blue ones.

A short video about Meadow Run's operations from Whole Foods blog (Meadow Run wholesales to WF) shot last year:

Farm Tours: Smucker's Meats

Tuesday, November 9th, 2010

farm tour: smuckers meats
Over the summer, Picky's workplace (Fair Food) hosted a staff tour of two farms and one processing facility. This is the first of a three part series of our visit to Lancaster County. The first stop was Smucker's Meats, in Mt. Joy, PA, a family-owned, USDA certified meat processing plant. Jay Smucker (his father, David, started the operation in 1965) met us in the small parking lot, flanked by free roaming chickens which Jay keeps as pets, to lead us inside. We all donned hairnets (sorry, no pics of that here!) and ducked inside. Above is a shot of the holding pen where cattle and pigs are kept before being slaughtered.

farm tour: smuckers meats
Jay, pictured above with the awesome 'stache, was sure to tell us a about how much he cares for the animals as they come onto his property. How they are treated as to undergo as little stress as possible by being transferred at night. How they strive to keep everything as clean as can be. Neither of us had been to a slaughterhouse before, but the comforting words by Jay helped put us at ease. I'll also add that there was no foul odor that one might associate with lots of freshly killed things might conjure. Smelled like farmland.

farm tour: smuckers meats
No use beating around the bush. Above is a shot of a side of beef (half a beef for the pros out there) which was rolled out from the gigantic refrigerator unit separating the "kill floor" from the "processing floor". The fridge was, if I recall correctly, kept at 27°F. Why so cold? The freezing temperature of beef (28°F) is lower than that of water (32°F). I don't recall the exact weight of the side of beef, but I think it was over 500lbs.

farm tour: smuckers meats
Here's a shot of Jay checking on things in another room down the hall from the kill floor with rows of ready to use hooks on the left.

farm tour: smuckers meats
The day we went to Smucker's wasn't a kill day, that had happened a day or two beforehand. Standing on the kill floor wasn't odd. It was so clean. Tools lined up against the walls, floor and walls scrubbed clean, nothing out of place. Toward the end where the killing happened were 3 32 gallon buckets full of beef scraps. These were to be picked up by a dog food company which would, in turn, make some high quality dog food. Nothing was going to waste here.

farm tour: smuckers meats
On to the processing floor. Two lines of workers surrounded what was essentially a gigantic cutting board. They wore chain mail gloves on their non-cutting hands so no digits went missing (and probably also for a better grip on the cold meat). Different stations processed different cuts. One person was cutting front end steaks, one person on ribs, one person on back end steaks… The cuts were weighed out and placed in sorting bins before final processing and packaging.

farm tour: smuckers meats
The craziest part of the tour for me was the use of a chainsaw to cut the sides of beef. The guy pictured above was really making quick work of it all. He'd halve the sides and haul the pieces to the table for sorting. He was a big dude and I certainly could not have done his job.

Smucker's is a busy facility. Slaughter orders are booked 2 months ahead of time as they're an in-demand shop. They do huge orders of 100+ and orders of a handful. They work with their customers to make sure they're getting what they want. They really care about their product and they take pride in their work. Fair Food sells beef (steaks, ground beef, jerky and beef sticks [think really tasty SlimJim]) from Landisdale Farm which uses Smucker's as their slaughterhouse.

It should be noted that Messy, who grew up not really eating meat, found the visit highly educational and not gross.

So parts two and three will be up soon and we hope to visit more farms, dairies, bakeries and other local food producers in the future.

Incanestro Blue Cheese

Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010

incanestro blue cheese from Common Folks - Leola, PA
Strong blue cheeses are not for the weak. They're not for every cheese lover even. This blue cheese won't knock you down as hard as some other cheeses, but it most definitely packs a punch and will turn some away. Common Folks brings their Incanestro to the table and dares you to take a big bite. Common Folks makes their cheese (this one's certified organic too) out in Leola, PA, a bit east of Lancaster and as far as I know, it's only available at Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market.

incanestro blue cheese from Common Folks - Leola, PA
In case you've never seen a cheese like this, with it's gorgeously deep grooves on all sides of this magnificent, medium sized wheel, it's an Italian basket molded cheese. I found this page from the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company's website explaining a bit about the style. Canestri is Italian for wicker basket. The cheese curds (once separated from the whey) is pressed directly into the baskets where they sit and develop those gorgeous grooves in the thicker than usual rind.

incanestro blue cheese from Common Folks - Leola, PA
The cheese is inoculated with mold spores (it's aliiiiiive!) and poked with metal rods allowing the mold to travel through the cheese and form those characteristic veins you've seen in blue cheeses. Riiiight, but how does it taste?

incanestro blue cheese from Common Folks - Leola, PA
My co-worker, and in house cheesemonger, Paul Lawler, writes the blurbs for our cheeses and I'll quote from his tag:

A bold and meaty — even porky blue!

I gotta agree, it's meaty, bordering on porky. It's immensely salty. It's a heavy cheese on the palate. The only saltier cheese available at the Farmstand is a cow's milk feta from Keswick Creamery which we sell in little tubs resting in brine. Eating a piece of this cheese, the rush of flavor is bigger than you'd expect from taking a whiff of it beforehand; it's not an immensely stinky cheese. It's creamy and a little bit crumbly. It's a sticky wheel to cut and it'll stay all over your fingers if you try to crumble it over a salad by hand (that salad better not have any bacon in it or it'll be overload!). I know that Mme. Fromage [who we dined with last night!] is most definitely a fan as she tweeted:

My local cheese of the moment: Incanestro, a porky blue. Salty, creamy, meat-tastic.

incanestro blue cheese from Common Folks - Leola, PA
I'll close this post with a shot of the rind of the cheese. Wedges of this decadent Italian style blue cheese to for $18/lbs so a nice 1/3lbs hunk will run you $6. It won't break the bank, but it's a little something different from the more standard cheddars Americans love to love. Ask for a taste, but remember that the taste will be fullest after letting the cheese come to temperature.

Help Keswick Creamery

Friday, June 4th, 2010

* * * * * * UPDATE * * * * * *

Unfortunately, this Cheddar Note scheme is a no go so please do not contact them in regards to purchasing a note. I'm going to keep this post up as a reference of the dire situation they're in and will post another update if another idea comes up down the line.

I've been enjoying Keswick Creamery's products during my time at Fair Food Farmstand and I'd like to continue enjoying their products. And that is why I'm reposting a plea from one of my co-workers, Paul Lawler, who worked out at Keswick last year. Keswick is currently in crisis mode. From Paul…

I'm writing you with a really special request: one of our suppliers (and my former employers) Keswick Creamery from Cumberland Co. is in crisis mode trying to raise money pronto to keep their cows and most of their farm from being sold off—like as in $200,000 by mid month. Crazy right? I hope not, because after mid-month, their cows and machinery will be sold followed by the farm being put for auction. Once it goes for auction it will most likely not be bought right away but the family that has been running it for nearly 40 years may or may not be able to buy it.

If this farmstead goes off the map not only does the Farmstand (and Weaver's Way & Kimberton Whole Foods) lose delicious pudding, ricotta, quark and numerous raw milk cheeses but PA will lose invaluable members of the sustainable community in the Deitrich Cochran family. What Keswick is proposing is that patrons purchase Cheddar Notes, essentially shares that are like savings accounts or a CD, only with a better every 6th month interest return of 3.5%.

What the family is too shy to mention is that they are also awesome members of the sustainable community and buy supporting them we are helping support PA’s deliciousness and sustainability quotient manifold. Last year they founded a now thriving co-operative called Natural Newburg to help bring the goods of not just Keswick but all their immediate six sustainable neighboring family farms as well to the greater Philly area. Over the years Mark and Mel have pushed the development of raw artisinal grass-based dairy in PA and the region by teaching others farmers (and interns) how to get started. They have been very active organizers and donors for PASA (Pennslyvania Assocation for Sustainable Agriculture), who for many years have put on the largest conference on sustainability on the east coast. We feel the benefit of PASA as Philly area consumers every time we purchase from some new farmer who learned "x" new growing method or taste a new cheese from a dairy farm who took a cheese cave building class at PASA.

* * * * * * * * * *

From the farmers:
Dear Friends,
Would you like to make a profitable investment in a worthwhile (and credit-worthy) small-scale, local enterprise? Buying a "Cheddar Note" from Keswick Creamery is a great way to accomplish this. Since 1974, my parents have been dairy farming and milking registered Jersey cows.

In 1996, my husband, Mark and I graduated from Virginia Tech, his degree is in English and mine is Dairy Science. In 1997 we returned to the family farm to start Keswick Creamery. We made our first cheese in February 2001 and started selling at the Dupont Circle Freshfarm Market in late fall of 2001.

My parents are divorcing and my father wants to "cash out" his half of the farm, quickly. Mark and I would like to buy his share of the farm to continue farming and making cheese here, and are seeking investors to help through the sale of interest-bearing Cheddar Notes. Rather than paying all that interest to the bank, we would much prefer to pay it to you, our friends and customers. The relationship is mutually beneficial: we provide you a return on your investment at a rate higher than your bank pays you, while we receive financing for a lower rate than our bank would charge us.

A Solid and Growing Business:
We think we are a safe bet for investors. My mom has been dairy farming for thirty-six years and we have been operating Keswick Creamery and farming alongside her for ten years. We are family farmers in South Central Pennsylvania, milking dairy cows and producing a variety of cheeses, fresh and aged in our own licensed cheese plant right here on the farm. We are farming organically and humanely. We are in this business full-time and support ourselves (and our daughter) on it alone. In 2009 we sold over $250,000 of cheese. We currently employ (in addition to family) one full time and three part time people from our local community. We have deep roots here and intend to stay. The farm, equipment and processing plant and equipment have a value of over $800,000. We continue to become more productive each season and continue to diversify. Cheddar Notes will allow us to continue our vision here.

The Wax on Cheddar Notes:
A Cheddar Note comes in the form of a "demand note". This means that the money lent is payable at any time you request, in one lump sum. (The actual language on the face of the note is "On demand we jointly promise to pay…") Buying a note is easy to do: simply send us a check and we will mail you a signed note. To keep our bookkeeping manageable, we offer Cheddar Notes only in $500 increments. On December 1, 2010 and every six months thereafter we will pay interest—currently 3.5% annually—on the amount you have invested. The rate of interest we pay is tied directly to current money market rates, and will be adjusted every six months beginning December 1. Along with each interest payment, you will receive a new note bearing the adjusted rate. It's as straightforward and uncomplicated as we can make it.

If you would like more information about Cheddar Notes or about our business, feel free to call. We'd be glad to talk with you about all of this. We hope you see this as a great opportunity to invest in your local farmers, get a better rate than your savings account, and put your money to work for the cheese and pudding you love to eat. We hope to hear from you soon.

Sincerely yours,
Mark and Melanie Dietrich Cochran
717-440-4650, keswick@pa.net
keswickcreamery.com

Ramps for Breakfast

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

ramp, shiitake, asparagus omelet
Today was the first day I was able to sleep in (no work, no photo gigs, no wedding planning, no nothing) in several weeks and it was grand. I planned to make myself a decadent breakfast/brunch and it was going to include the hot ingredient of the season: ramps. I really like the taste of ramps, not to the craziness some people have over fiddlehead ferns and ramp season, but I do enjoy them. We've prepared ramps with asparagus, sauteed greens and other dishes over the last few weeks, but I had recently read that ramps go well with eggs and I was hooked on the idea. Above is the cutting board loaded up with sliced ramps up top (leaves separated from cleaned bulbs), sliced shiitake on the left, on the bias sliced asparagus on the bottom and farm fresh eggs in the middle.

The ramps were foraged by a friend of mine and his friend, LJ and Lou, in Chester County. Where you ask? They could tell you, but then they'd surely have to kill you – perhaps even before they told you. Locations for ramps, which grow wild, are like old family recipes or locations for chanterelle and morel mushrooms. Closely guarded secrets which one can enjoy the fruits of, but never can the secrets be revealed. The asparagus from Buzby Farm in South Jerz. The shiitake from the mushroom capital of the world, Kennett Square. The eggs from the man with 16 heritage breeds of pastured hens, Mark Skinner of Natural Meadows Farm.

ramp, shiitake, asparagus omelet
I melted some unsalted butter in a pan and dropped in the ramp bulbs (3 or 4) to cook for a minute and then added in the asparagus slices (3 or 4 spears). A pinch of fleur de sel and fresh cracked pepper are added to the mix. Let the ingredients cook for another minute and add in a handful of sliced shiitake (I have big hands and love the strong flavor of shiitake) and another pat of butter into the pan. Toss them around for another minute. Sometime around when you add the mushrooms to the pan, start up another flame for your eggs. I love cast iron for eggs and I cook them in unsalted butter, always. Lightly beat the eggs with some salt and pepper and few sprigs of chopped chives if you have them handy. Once the pan is hot, pour in the eggs and stir them around a bit to get them cooking. Slivered up some Hillacres Pride habanero cheddar with a veggie peeler and spread it over the cheese. Now I add in the ramp leaves to the pan of veggies to wilt them. Above is a shot of all the veggies removed from heat for a sec for me to get a pic in.

ramp, shiitake, asparagus omelet
After a final minute of sauteeing, add all the veggies atop the eggs and let them warm up the cheese below. Fold over the other edge and presto, you've got an omelet fit for a king.