As we were seated, one of the dining room managers came by to fill our waters. Picky knew a friend of a friend was one of the managers here. He took a stab at his name and he hit. We joked about our mutual friend for a bit and talked about what looked good on the tantalizing menu before he had to get back to his duties and mingling with his guests. We put in our order with our server and before long, a stream of antipasti and bruschetta flowed forth from the open kitchen steps to our table. But it was much more than we had ordered. Our new friend had sent along a few extras.

Imported bufala ricotta and black pepper [$8] and mortadella mousse [$6].

Sal's old school meatballs with tomato potato [$8]. Little bite-sized irregularly-shaped meatballs were supple and juicy. We had to take them down in two-bite portions to savor them just a little bit more.

Coppa with hazelnut honey [$8]. Fact: hazelnuts make just about anything better.

Polenta with brown butter [$5]

Fried lambs tongue with salsa rossa [$7] (pickled red onion). The lamb wasn't overly lamb-y which can be a problem for many. The the acid from pickled red onion draped across the row of tongue would help play down the lamb-y flavor for those who are lamb-averse.

Grilled smoked mozzarella with pickled vegetables [$8]

Bucatini alla "matriciana" with pork jowl, chili flake and pecorino [$14]. For Picky, this was the star antipasti for the night. A springy al dente sprinkled with clouds of finely grated pecorino was the perfect vessel to gather the hunks of hearty jowl with little bits of arrabiata kick from the chili flakes.

Gnocchi alla romana with oxtail ragu [$14]. Picky is a real oxtail lover. It's in many Korean dishes which he loved eating growing up. This was, sadly, just not as flavorful as he hoped it would be. It got a little lost amidst the other wonderful plates.

Bufala ricotta ravioli with spring asparagus [$14]. Similar to the doppio ravioli from Vetri's largest outpost, Osteria which we enjoyed two years ago. Messy, who did not partake in the meatier offerings of the evening, ate almost all of this by herself. It was absolutely delectable, but a little rich for one person. Next time she won't be so greedy!

"Tartufo al bacio" chocolate and hazelnut semifreddo with amarena cherries [$10]. This hard-shelled dessert was attacked and destroyed by the three of us. We didn't hold back as it tried to keep its delicious contents from our forks. Picky stabbed it once through the dome and we were rightfully rewarded with a near-dreadfully rich chocolate hazelnut mixture that made you think Nutell-wha? for a moment before digging in to find the small, sour amarena cherries blissfully floating throughout.

Vetri's tiramisu. Perhaps Picky's biggest pet peeve when it comes to food is messing with the classics. Vetri, it seems, feels the same way. This tiramisu was probably the best tiramisu Picky has ever had in his life. Growing up just outside of NYC, he was fortunate to have sampled many a fine tiramisu, but this one rules them all. The biscuits were moist and dense like a great cupcake, not the heavy density of a pound cake. Heaps of cocoa powder drizzled off the heaping marscapone to the plate awaiting sly improper finger-to-plate manners. This was Messy's favorite dessert of the three, and she wished she had been greedy in this instance — next time, she'll order one all for herself!

Head chef's [Brad Spence] grandma's rice pudding w/balsamic — a 100 year-old recipe. Messy and her friend both enjoyed this one tremendously, although Messy found it less enticing than the tiramisu. Picky passed on this one; he's never been a fan of rice pudding and even this delectable couldn't sway him.

A shot of the open kitchen at Amis from our table. The feel of the space is lively. It's loud, but the kind of loud that makes you feel alive, not the shouting-at-your-tablemates kind of loud. The larger tables on the Waverly Street side fill up with large groups and after a few bottles, they contribute a lot to the soundscape of the place, but it's not unwelcome. While the space doesn't have that homey feel of Osteria, it does have a wonderfully laid back trattoria feel, which is was Vetri and Co. were going for after their pilgrimage to The Boot. With their Monday industry late night events, this space will garner a strong following. With it's approachability, it's already gaining cult-like neighborhoodie approval. And hopefully it'll stay just enough under the radar of the out-of-towner crew (in Picky's NYC, they were called B&T, bridge & tunnel), and you'll be able to get a spot in here without too much trouble.

Amis
412 S. 13th Street & Waverly
Philadelphia, PA 19147
215-732-AMIS (2647)
dinner
M-Th: 5pm-11:30pm | Late night menu: 11:30pm-1am
F & Sa: 5pm-12:00am | Late night menu: 12:00am 1am
Su: 5pm-10:30pm | Late night menu: 10:30pm-12am
lunch
M-F: 11:30am-2pm
No lunch on Saturdays
brunch
Su: 10am-2pm

We were greeted at the host stand and immediately led to our table on the south side of the floor. As we walked through the space, we felt the warm details of the establishment come through. Warm red wood everywhere. A nice level of noise to let you know you're somewhere people want to be, but it never rose to an annoying din. We were comfortably dressed, but just like 95% of Philly's restaurants, this place was pretension-free and anybody would be fine in jeans. We settled at our table which was a few tables over from the cheese prep station in the middle of the main seating area.

Our greeter was still crisply dressed towards the end of the night and was quite helpful in navigating the delicious menu. He refilled our quickly emptied bread tray and patiently told us what each slice of bread was — the slightly buttery foccacia was the best!

Here you can see Messy reaching for one of Osteria's old-timey olive oil tins which you can, if you feel so inclined, purchase from Osteria here for $16. You can complete the pre-dinner bread experience with a bread basket as well. You're gonna have to click through for the jaw dropping price.

We picked out the baked asiago and fontina cheese with accoutrement. What was in the accoutrement? Some sprouts, jams and sour cream. It was a deliciously oily, if small, starter which had us literally licking our fingers in anticipation for our main courses.

Messy's "doppio ravioli" double ravioli ($16) was perfect. Each delicate piece simply dissolved on the tongue. The ravioli was listed in the primi section of the five part menu so it was a small portion that left her wanting more. Warning to vegetarians: Osteria is not a place for you. Messy enjoyed the experience and vibe of the restaurant, but there wasn't really much on the menu that could create a fully-satisfying meal out for a non-meateater. There were some vegetarian pizza options, but with the mouth-watering array of meats, Picky was not about to settle for a vegetable-based pizza.

For the carnivores, however, Osteria is pretty close to heaven. Picky's "casoelua" braised pork ribs and black pepper sausage with cabbage ($24) was divine and quite the portion too — a secondi portion with the flavors to go with it. The pork ribs gladly slid off the bone to be mixed with a string of flavorful stewed cabbage. The slices of sausage were juicy almost to a fault, but in a good way. Picky was stunned silent by the dish.

Picky's bowl of pork looming large over Messy's delicate ravioli.

When ordering at Osteria, please take into account that the portions are doled out with the expectation that the patron will be having a solid four or five course meal. Plates from the primi section won't be enough for a hungry diner on a budget. Pizzas are made to be ordered aplenty and shared with friends. Osteria's menu changes seasonally as they rely on some wonderful local sources for veggies, fresh dairy and eggs and pork.

After our delicious meal, we opted for some coffee and tea. Messy was game for dessert, but Picky is a dessert traditionalist and didn't feel adventurous enough for Osteria's exotic conconctions. Coffee was by Moka d'Oro. The ($2) tea was unfortunately your average bagged Twinnings. But it should be noted that Picky got a full pot of hot water with which to steep his tea. Taking our time before heading into the December cold, Picky helped himself to two large cups and soaked in a bit more warmth from the space. Osteria was a nice way to cap off a delicious meal and fill our bellies with some warmth before heading out into the cold once again.

Messy ***
Picky ****

Messy's note: Clearly, this is a really great restaurant — maybe one of the best in Philadelphia. I want to give it some props, but as a vegetarian, it sadly left me wanting. I'll have to return with someone who wants to share a pizza.

The final word: A meat-eater's paradise.

Osteria
640 North Broad Street
(215) 763-0920
Dinner:
Sun – Wed: 5pm – 10pm
Thur – Sat: 5pm – 11pm
Lunch:
Thur – Fri: 11:30am – 2pm

I love the bread from Sarcone's down on 9th and Fitzwater Sts. You can get it around town in various places, but I know you can get it at Sue's Produce (115 S. 18th St just north of Sansom St) fresh and daily. You'll probably hear it called Sar-cone's or Sar-cone-a's depending on who you ask, but just about everyone will tell you to go do yourself a favor and get yourself some. A loaf of Italian will set you back $1.30. I prefer the unseeded.

But what kind of cheese to put on top of that luscious, soft, crunchy bread? I love me some mozzarella from Claudio's in the Italian Market at 924-26 South 9th St. One side of the store is their state of the art mozzarella factory churning out loads of bursting-with-flavor balls of mozzarella. The other half of the store is a specialty foods store with cheese, olives, cured meats, pasta, olive oil and all the other goodies you'd expect to find in a specialty foods store in the Italian Market. Like the Sarcone's mentioned above, you can also get Claudio's at Sue's (it's like they know exactly what I want and make it centrally available!). At Sue's you can get 1/2 pound balls of mozzarella for about $3.50 and a pint package of little balls for $2. A pound of the smoked mozzarella (pictured above on the Sarcone's) will set you back $6.99/lbs. and it's worth every penny.

Slice off a few inches of Italian bread and split it, but not all the way through. Take a sharp knife (not serrated) and slice off some chunks of mozzarella. Not too much though, you want a decent balance between the bread and cheese. A spritz of olive oil on the bread could add a splash of taste, but I prefer mine dry. Fold over the top half of the bread and smoosh it down a bit. Now, enjoy your masterpiece in old world simplicity. A loaf and a 1lbs. ball of mozzarella is probably plenty for a picnic with some friends and with this insane weather, you can enjoy your picnic in some of the 9,000 acres of green space that is Fairmount Park through Thanksgiving.

The bread will stay fresh for a few days so you don't have to wolf it down in one sitting (but I'm not advising you not to eat it all). Enjoy it for lunch. Have it on the side for dinner. Heat it up and butter it in the morning. The mozzarella you can save for a few days too, but be sure to sniff it after a couple of days – nothing worse than spoiled milk products.

Messy had read about this vegetarian and vegan friendly Italian restaurant in a free magazine at the gym, so we decided to go one Friday night. We walked in and were greeted by a cheery maitre d' who asked if we had a reservation. We didn't, but it was no problem. He also asked to take our coats. We weren't used to this request and chose to take our coats to our table. He then asked our preference of menus: vegetarian/vegan or regular and we chose one of each. We were lead upstairs to a large dining room which was outfitted with a gas fireplace and disco/party lights which were not in use (it looks like one can rent out that room for parties).

We were seated in a cozy table next to the fireplace. There was a cute family with young children seated next to us. They happily gobbled down their food (they have a kids menu with about six different choices) and excitedly yapped about going to Starbucks for dessert afterwards. We opted to order off the grown up's menu which was presented in a nice silver metal binder. We were told that they were just about to overhaul the menu due to the success of the veggie/vegan options on the current menu, but when we went back last week that change had not yet taken place.

The service was outstanding. Our server and two assistants were attentive while giving us enough time to enjoy our meal. However, they did mess up our bread which came with straight balsamic instead of olive oil with a splash of balsamic infusion. We thought they must have realized their mistake because they gave us an extra serving of bread, which we had not asked for, with the right balance of oil and vinegar. But when we went back for a second time, we got two servings of bread as well, so maybe it was just a fluke. Also, the second time we were there, our server accidentally gave a non-vegan meal to our vegan friend, but she noticed her mistake before any harm was done.

We had a vegetarian antipasto which came with fried mozzarella balls in marinara sauce, ricotta cheese ravioli in a mushroom cream sauce with peas, diced honeydew and canteloupe and strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. All very good.

Picky had the lobster ravioli carbonara with wild mushrooms, peas, prosciutto, parmasean, lump crabmeat in a cream sauce. There were more than enough ravioli to fill him up, no worries about skimping on the good stuff. For our second visit, he tried the penne a la vodka, a very simple favorite of Picky's right up there with gnocchi a la vodka (just about anything slathered in creamy vodka sauce will do actually). It was in just as heaping a serving as expected from our first visit, but he did not fail to gobble it all up along with an ample dose of freshly shredded parm. Along with the parm our server brought out, we were also given a small dish of hot pepper flakes (like the ones that you put on pizza), but nobody touched those.

Messy had a hard time deciding among all of the vegetarian options. She settled on a "chicken" penne dish with spinach, artichokes, mushrooms, garlic in an alfredo sauce. The portion was big enough for a family of four and it was very tasty. For our second visit, she tried the vegetarian chicken parmesan which was also yummy although not as plentiful as the penne.

The only disappointing part of our meal was dessert. The tiramisu was small for its $7 pricetag and something about it just tasted… off. The dessert also came with some strawberries, raspberries and bluberries sprinkled on the side. The next time we visited, our dessert was also kind of weird: a brownie baked in a muffin tin. Maybe the family next to us knew about the not-so-hot desserts when they excitedly headed to Starbucks instead.

On our way out, it was about time for the neighborhoodies to come out to the bar downstairs. It was packed with South Philly hipsters starting off their night. We were just passing through, but it looked like a pretty cool area with pool tables and the Violent Femmes pumping through the speakers.

Messy ****
Picky ***1/2

The final word: Great faux meat options in a classy setting.

Vesuvio Restaurant
736 South 8th St @ Fitzwater
(215) 922-8380
Tue – Thu: 5pm-10pm
Fri – Sat: 5pm-11pm
Sun: 10am-2pm, 5pm-9pm

We went to La Fourno on a particularly cold night, and we were immediately warmed up by a brick oven hard at work. Our friendly hostess lead us past a large counter with tons of pizzas into the rear portion of the dining room which was very cozy — intimate, even! — with barely any lighting aside from candlelight bouncing off of the exposed brick walls.

The first thing we noticed about the menu was the lobster ravioli special, listed as "It don't get better than this." We took them at their word and didn't order any of it. We did, however, order an appetizer off the special menu: the farinatta bread, which was a hard (not quite biscotti-textured) chickpea flour bread. It came with roasted red peppers and sharp Italian cheese. We both pronounced it "interesting" but not excellent. We also got a basic salad with each of our meals, which comes with only the choice of oil and balsamic vinegar dressing.

Picky ordered the chicken valdostana which was stuffed with yummy delights, including prosciutto. Messy had the gnocchi gorgonzola, which came in a humongous portion. Messy unwisely ate all of it, save for a few bites by Picky, and suffered from severe agita afterwards. It was tasty, but Messy isn't the biggest fan of gnocchi, although she is a huge fan of gorgonzola (Picky loves gnocchi!).

Our meal was supplemented by a gift certificate from 12th St Gym when Messy re-joined for a year using Picky as a referral – they give out dinner for two vouchers with each referral. But you won't need to worry about cost too much, everything is reasonably priced. Our entrees combined were under $30.

Messy ****
Picky ****

The final word: Cozy, yummy Italian food in the middle of a bustling South Street block.

La Fourno
636 South St
Philadelphia, PA
(215) 627-9000
Mon – Thur: 11.30am – 10pm
Fri – Sat: 11.30am – 11pm
Sun: 12.30pm – 10pm

Although we have had pretty good experiences with Pine Street Pizza, there is one major disappointment: there are no single slices. A small pie, which costs $5.75, is slightly bigger than a Pizza Hut personal pan pizza. They come with six small slices, roughly equal to two and a half "real" slices. The pizza is thick, and Greek-style, with crust that tastes almost like French bread. It's a good balance of mozz and sauce, but still too thick and chewy for Picky's liking.

Also on the menu are other Greek specialities like souvlaki and gyros. Picky went for a gyro, which he found to be nice and overstuffed, served in tin foil wrapper. He found it to be quite good, with plenty of shredded lettuce and diced fresh tomatos as well as a nice helping of sliced beef and yogurt sauce, and, for a twist, sliced pickles which was new to him and not a good, but not a bad combo.

Two other important facts about Pine Street Pizza: it's open until midnight, which is pretty late for the neighborhood, there are always cops in there. Always. Like four officers every thirty minutes.

And how large are the small pies? Below is a photo with a CD for reference:

Messy: ***
Picky: ***

The final word: Decent Greek pizza open til midnight, with lots of security.

12th St & Pine St
7 Days 11am – Midnight
Delivery to 11.20pm
215-922-2526

First off, we gotta say that Lazaro's slices are huuuuge, even by our standards. They're also pretty tasty: our only complaint is that the sauce is way too sweet. But otherwise, the pizza is very good, especially for Philadelphia.

All size pies have eight slices. A small plain [read: cheese] starts at $6.50 and gourmet pies start at $8. The first tier gourmet pies include the BBQ Grilled Chicken, Eggplant & Tomato and Hawaiian [Pineapple & Ham]. We haven't had any of their gourmet pizzas, nor their calzones or other offerings which include six vegetarian sandwiches, four of which are slightly different variations of the veggie burger, but we have been back twice for their plain slice– which says a lot for us. Of course, we were really, really hungry both times. We'll have to give Lazaro's a try sometime on a fuller stomach.

Picky would put Lazaro's right up there with NYPD's and Two Red Boots's slices. Lazaro's is not really a destination– if you order, order takeout as there are only a few stools to sit on inside. Picky would like to amend this post and say that he's had enough of this sweet sauce after a couple trips. For the first couple of bites, it's good, then the sweetness is just too much, no amount of garlic powder can help. NYPD is king!

Messy ***
Picky * 1/2

The final word: Big, sweet slices.

1743 South St
Philadelphia, PA
(215) 545-2775
Mon – Th: 11am – 10.30pm
Fri – Sat: 11am – 11.30pm
Sun: Noon – 9.30pm

One of very few gourmet [brick oven] pizza places to earn the seal of approval from Picky, a bona fide pizza snob. With assorted toppings to choose from including, but not limited to: anchovies, arugala, goat cheese, kalamata olives, proscuitto and roasted zucchini. After much deliberation, we settled on roma tomatoes, ricotta and spinach. There is surely something to please everyone.

The desserts were small, by our fatso-American standards, but delectable nonetheless. Picky has sampled their calzones which are both very gigantic and rather pricey, and they were out of proscuitto which he was craving. Messy loved thier Insalata Siciliana which consisted of mixed greens with fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers kalamata olives, capers, anchovies, carrots, grape tomatoes and artichokes, tossed with house dressing – big enough to share.

Pietro's has two locations, one on South and Front Sts and one on 17^th and Walnut Sts, we dined at the Walnut St establishment, but we're sure the South St location is full of flavor as well. They even have a spot in Marlton, so if you're craving some good eats on your way to the shore or can't wait until you get back to Philly, stop on in over there.

Messy ***1/2
Picky ***

The final word: Picky's first decent slice of pizza in Philly!

Pietro's Coal Oven Pizzeria Restaurant
1714 Walnut St
Philadelphia, PA
11am-midnight

A taste of Italy admist the hustle and bustle of Olde City. Any kind of panini you could want at affordable prices, delivered to your table – indoors or out – by a cute Italian. Like many other restaurants seeking to avoid Philly's archaic liquor-license laws, this one is B.Y.O.B.

Messy ****
Picky ***

The final word: Like a higher-class, Italian, hoagie joint.

Panini's Trattoria
317 Market St
Philadelphia, PA
M-S 11-9

Got a date you want to impress, but not, you know, impress too much? This classy Italian chain is a perfect choice for semi-important dates, birthdays, and apparently, large gatherings of men in khaki pants. Make sure to get there early, there's always a wait, but it is well worth it for the enormous portions and heavenly tastes. You can have a seat at the large bar area and have some cheap appetizers while you wait. Dark wood dominates the restaurant. Lighting is provided by dropped bundles of glowing globes from the ceiling. Their D.C. location has a mini-shrine to Old Blue Eyes, we can't recall seeing one in the Philadelphia location.

They give out enough bread to feed a small nation and the entrees are absolutely delectable. Be careful not to stuff yourself with the enormous portions, you want to save room for dessert (we recommend the tiramisu). But before dessert, you'll have to go through a set of large entrees. Picky's favorite is their gnocchi in vodka sauce. He loves mushing individual pieces on the roof of his mouth with his tongue. So squishy, so yummy. Messy favors the four cheese ravioli in pesto alfredo sauce. Order from the regular menu or go family style for some supersized portions.

All in all, this is a great place to go when you want a classy evening out without having to get dressed up or break the bank. But if you'd rather eat at home, you can always carryout your food and dine in privacy.

Messy ****1/2
Picky ****

The final word: Unlike most chains, this one doesn't feel manufactured.

Maggiano's Little Italy
1201 Filbert St.
Philadelphia, PA 19107
215-567-2020
Mon.-Thu. 11:30AM-10PM; Fri.-Sat. 11:30AM-11PM; Sun. noon-9PM