Archive for the ‘Reading Terminal Market’ Category

Goose Egg

Monday, April 5th, 2010

open face goose egg sandwich
Doesn't that look absolutely delicious? It's an open face egg sandwich. Fried for a few minutes on each side so the yolk isn't entirely set, still a little oozy, but not fully drippingly so. A slice of Metropolitan Bakery's French table bread (my favorite base bread). A dab of El Yucateco habanero sauce for a little burn. Now what if I told you that was a goose egg?! Yep, that's a tiny sliver, the last 2 bites, of a gigantic goose egg from Pecan Meadows Farm out in Newburg, PA.

goose egg
I picked up two of these beauties at Fair Food in RTM last week. We got them in on Thursday and they're $3 a pop. The eggs are 4.5" from end to end (3" tall) and 7.5" around the waist. I don't have a scale handy, but it's roughly 0.5lbs or so, maybe a little more 0.40lbs. It's a little heavier than 3 chicken eggs in my unscientific kitchen test. The color of the eggs range from stark white to a scratchy light brown like in the photo above. I don't know exactly what kind of goose the eggs are from, but I'll find out and update the post.

chicken and goose egg
Here's a chicken egg (from Natural Meadows Farm as previously posted about) in front of the goose egg.

goose and chicken egg shells
After cracking a chicken egg and a goose egg, I compared the shells. The goose egg shell on the left is the bottom piece so the top piece is the narrower, longer part. Without a micrometer handy, I'd say the goose egg was fully twice as thick as the chicken egg and that chicken egg is pretty thick. When I hit the egg on the side of the bowl for the first time, it basically laughed at me. And this is coming from a guy who's now very very used to cracking an egg pretty hard from these much thicker shelled farm fresh eggs. A couple more clangs and I had it.

chicken and goose egg
So here they are side by side. Yes, I know, they're not perfect comparison vessels, but I think many people are familiar with those small, glass prep bowls (4" wide) and your basic cereal bowl (6" wide). The goose egg's yolk is about the size of the whole chicken egg. The albumen of the goose egg was so remarkably clear. After seeing how cloudy an emu egg was [see here], I expected this egg to be closer to that. But it was just as clear, if not clearer, than a chicken egg. Based on how it tasted and the texture, I'd say it had more water content in the albumen, but didn't taste watered down.

metropolitan bakery french table loaf
A glory shot of the French table bread.

goose egg
So here's your average Lodge Pro-Logic 10" cast iron skillet; my favorite cooking vessel. It takes up about 80% of the pan.

goose egg
I broke the yolk and flipped it. The yolk bled out a little bit and took up even more of the remaining 20% of the pan.

chicken egg sandwich
Here's your basic egg sandwich I made for Messy. A fried egg with some cheddar and Oldwick Shepherd (mold ripened sheep's milk, cave-aged 3-4 months from Valley Shepherd Creamery). Note, her sandwich is on Metropolitan's multi-grain loaf which is a tad bigger than the French table bread, but basically the same size.

fried goose egg
Here's the fried egg on your average plate (not a full sized dinner plate), with 2 smallish slices of bread. This sucker was huge. But how did it taste? It wasn't different from a chicken egg to me. If anything, it wasn't quite as tasty as the Natural Meadows eggs. I'm just spoiled by them really. I'm told that goose eggs are richer than your average egg, more sulfury, but the Natural Meadows eggs are just unreal. But that's not to say that the goose egg wasn't tasty – it was delicious. The albumen turned a very white white and fluffed up nicely. I have one more goose egg to try out (Messy vehemently refused to eat a goose egg) so I'll be scrambling one up soon. I hit this fried egg with a sprinkle of sea salt and fresh cracked pepper to bring out the flavors. Then I dabbed a couple drops of El Yucateco for a little tingle on the lips which is how I love my eggs.

We got a bunch in on Thursday, but I have no idea how many are left for the next week. Call the farmstand to see if there are any for you: 215.627.2029.

Natural Meadows Eggs

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

natural meadows farm eggs
With Easter approaching, here's a shot of some colorful eggs that aren't dyed. Above is a rainbow dozen from Mark Skinner's Natural Meadows Farm hens. Mark raises 16 kinds of heritage breed chickens on his farm out north of Harrisburg. He makes the trek into Philly several times a week going to various farmers markets to sell direct and some other spots around town where he wholesales.

The eggs come in the coolest colors from your plain white and light/medium/dark brown to cream, maroon, brown speckled, blue-green and what one person exclaimed to me at the Farmstand: "like Mississippi mud". A few months ago, I got Mark to sit tight after dropping off an order of eggs at RTM to scribble down all the varietals of hens he keeps: Light brown eggs: Speckled Sussex, Russian Orloff, Turken / Naked Neck. Brown eggs: Wyandotte, Buckeye, Delaware. Dark brown eggs: Marans, RI Red. Speckled brown: Welsummer. White eggs: Hamburg, Ancona, Blue Andalusian, Leghorn, Black Rosecomb (more of show bird), Old English Redcap. Green-blue eggs: Ameraucana.

If you'd like to grab a dozen or few of these eggs, you can catch Mark at The Piazza Farmers Market on Saturday 10a – 2p or at Weaver's Way Co-op up in Mt. Airy or at Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market.

And one final tip: if you're looking to hard boil eggs, use older eggs. The egg shell will separate from the egg easier with older eggs.

Cherry Grove Farm Cheeses

Monday, March 22nd, 2010

cherry grove farm maidenhead cheese
Cherry Grove Farm makes some amazing cheese. Their raw milk cheeses are all aged at least 60 days (US regulation, so even their brie isn't a true brie) in their "cave." They make a decent variety of it too as you can see on their site here. Their cheeses also look nice too which doesn't hurt. Above is their Maidenhead cheese:

Semi soft cheese washed with local beer from Flying Fish Brewery in Cherry Hill, NJ. Super flavor and creamy texture are but a few of Maidenheads' attributes!

cherry grove farm maidenhead cheese
To me, it's like a harder, stinky brie. I'm no super cheesehead, but I like me a good cheese so forgive my lack of a proper cheese lexicon. It's definitely a creamy cheese, like Cherry Grove describes it as being, not dry and brittle and not buttery like a brie. Cutting into the wheel, the aromas are released and all that are within a few feet of it will smell it. It's not one of those take a step back because the nose hits you so hard cheeses, more of a pleasing stink to it.

cherry grove farm herdsman cheese
Next up is their Herdsman which, I believe, they just started distributing last year. From the site:

Most often compared to cheddar, this creamy raw milk cheese is our best melting cheese for anything from an omelet to fondue. Unlike cheddar, Herdsman does not separate when melted.

cherry grove farm herdsman cheese
I couldn't tell you about the Cherry Grove recommendation to use it as a melting cheese in omelets since it's so delicious on its own. I don't recall the flavor being as complex as it is this year. Last year, it was more of a fluke cheese from what I recall. They didn't intend to make it, it just happened. Perhaps one of those happy accidents in the cheesery.

cherry grove farm toma primavera
And here's how we cut wheels of cheese at the farmstand. For perspective, that's your typical 8" – 9" chefs knife. This wheel of Cherry Grove's Toma Primavera is about 17" in diameter.

This washed rind recipe comes from the Piedmont Section of the Italian Alps. Toma has a deep, creamy flavor and can be best be described as "tangy." It melts beautifully and releases a stronger aroma and flavor when melted.

cherry grove farm toma primavera
The Toma is my favorite of the Cherry Grove line. It's got a delicious, old, aged flavor, but without the crumbliness. It's got a richer color to it than the Herdsman (which I didn't take the time to distinguish enough while taking and editing the photos, d'oh) making that much more pleasing to the eye. I'm told that DiBruno Bros. further ages and washes the Cherry Grove Toma to a more brilliant red (bacteria) colored exterior. Very cool. This will lead to a distinctive taste different from what you'll find when purchasing Cherry Grove Toma elsewhere (like at Fair Food).

Cherry Grove has a really cool operation just north of Princeton, NJ. I really want to take a field trip up there to see everything. Reading the description of their farm lifts my spirits. Pasture raised cows producing luscious milk which makes delicious cheese. The whey from the cheese making process going to the pigs which live in a forest in the middle of the property. 1,000 pasture raised chickens roaming free. Even the wood they use for heat and hot water is from a great and sustainable source: tree surgeons drop off piles off wood on their property. This saves the surgeons money from dumping fees at landfills and this gives Cherry Grove free fuel! Awesome.

All of Cherry Grove's cheeses are available at Fair Food from (I think) $14.99 – $21.99 /lbs. We also have the Shippetaukin Blue, but I didn't cut any of it the other day, so no photos. It's an incredibly salty blue. Also on the crumbly side. I prefer my blues much creamier. A co-worker of mine couldn't finish the little chunk I cut for her as it was too salty. I'm pretty sure Whole Foods carries Cherry Grove cheeses and DiBruno Bros definitely does. I'm no good at pairing foods together, so you'll have to go somewhere else for that. I like cheese with just about everything. Happy munching!

Baby Fennel

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

baby fennel at fair food farmstand
Just a quickie post on a veggie I've never seen before: baby fennel. It's just what it sounds like. I'm not a fennel fan (nor anything fennel/anise/licorice flavored) so I won't be having any of it, but well, it's available at Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. The crazy Saturday rush crowd may have already swooped in and grabbed all that we got in during the week (3 lbs), but we might get some more on Tuesday.

They're not even 1.5" wide at the base. The stalks are a solid 18" long with those familiar Apiaceae family leaves (think dill, carrots and parsnip).

Local Grower Local Buyer 2010

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

local grower local buyer 2010
Last Monday I attended this really awesome event at Reading Terminal Market put on by my employer Fair Food. It was the gathering of dozens of local farmers, dairies, bakeries and value-added producers showing off their wares to hundreds of buyers in the Philly area. It's called Local Grower Local Buyer and this was the 7th wonderful gathering. Bob over at Robert's Market Report got his writeup up promptly. Well, better late than never. Above is Sue Miller of Birch Run Hills Farm which makes some of my favorite cheeses in the land. Her recently reformulated foil-wrapped Birch Run Blue is my current favorite cheese out there. We actually just melted some for an overly decadent sauce for dinner last night. She had samples of her Blue, Alpine and some new fromage blanc samples – one with tarragon, one with honey and salt; the honey and salt was sublime and it's currently unavailable.

local grower local buyer 2010
Local chocolatier John&Kiras piled up their colorful square boxes filled with little treats for all to peer into.

local grower local buyer 2010
Market Cafe's canele are among the best single or two-bite items in the entire city. What is a canele? It's this delicious pastry with a just-slightly crispy exterior with a decadent, custardy soft interior. I've had a couple of Market Cafe's canele and they're worth every penny. Check out Gaetano's post on the LGLB event.

local grower local buyer 2010
Wanna know who also loves the Market Cafe canele? Jose Garces. That's him in the blurry shot above about to shake hands with the garlic man Tom Coulton of Coulton Organics. But more on the Iron Chef in a bit.

local grower local buyer 2010
Daisy Flour built a mini walled fort showing off their many many varieties of flour. I have some serious baking friends and many of them swear by this stuff. It's expensive, but the lightness of their pastry dough and the high gluten content of their bread flour are the real deal.

local grower local buyer 2010
Here are the samples at the Birch Run Hills stand. I wanted to eat one sample and just keep going down the line of mini spoons, but I had to keep clicking away.

local grower local buyer 2010
Mark Skinner is one of my favorite farmers in the area. His 16 varieties of heritage chickens produce the coolest rainbow dozens of eggs you'll ever see. Brown, white, cream, maroonish-pink, speckled, blue-green. They're sooo cool. I always love chatting with him at markets and when he delivers to the farmstand. He was doing double (or was it triple) duty sampling some other stuff including the Apple Tree Goat Farm chevre he's cutting up with that mini cleaver above.

local grower local buyer 2010
And here's Coulton. He's a character. He's got lots of cool hats, most with feathers in them. Come summer, he'll be bringing dozens of varieties of garlic to market along with his other heirloom varietals of everything under the sun. Here, he's jabbing at the air while holding a Jerusalem artichoke which surround his land – once you plant those, you'll never have to do so again, they're crazy growers.

local grower local buyer 2010
Keeping in line with local characters with great products, Ryan, the elder brother of the duo behind the best ice cream in the city, Franklin Fountain, was there. They're always coming up with cool new things every year in their Old City shoppe. I hope he went home inspired.

local grower local buyer 2010
With all this delicious food all around, there had to be something to drink, right? Philadelphia Brewing Company came through with samples of their full lineup of brews.

local grower local buyer 2010
So let's get back to the newly minted Iron Chef Garces. We knew his head buyer, Adam DeLosso, was gonna be there, but Garces himself showing up was extra cool. Garces is committed to bringing the farm to table in his yet to be named spot, under construction eatery at the Cira Centre. He took a full tour of every single vendor there and stayed well over an hour. Above, he's sampling and taking a look at Shellbark Hollow Farm's chevre (which is delicious!). The sharp chevre is the famous "Obama cheese" people have been requesting all over town since not-yet-President Obama picked up a helping at DiBruno Bros during a campaign stop.

local grower local buyer 2010
The Geechee Girl Cafe crew fluttered from table to table all night.

local grower local buyer 2010
Trickling Springs Creamery brought out all kinds of [pasteurized] milk to the event. I've had their buttermilk, whole and chocolate varieties and they're all incredibly rich. Most likely thicker than any kind of pasteurized milk you've had before. Closer to raw milk than store bought ultra-pasteurized milk. If you're scared of raw milk (there's no reason to be scared!), but want a creamier product, search out TSC milk at Whole Foods and Fresh Grocer in Philly. Fair Food might carry some of their stuff down the line.

local grower local buyer 2010
Here's Ryan trying out some of the colorful, filled chocolate from John&Kira's.

local grower local buyer 2010
Nicole from Quince and Garces listening attentively.

local grower local buyer 2010
And yes, there were many PA Dutch vendors there. Here are two of them talking to Coulton. See that feather in his cap? I told you this guy has lots of feather'd caps.

local grower local buyer 2010
Here's Garces talking to Chris of Common Market Philadelphia, a wholesale consolidator, marketer and distributor of food produced in the Philadelphia region. While Garces has made it clear he wants to pursue local sourcing, the pure volume of his eateries poses logistical problems. People from various local foods organizations are brainstorming to remedy that situation.

local grower local buyer 2010
Ever wonder how eggs are graded? Coulton brought along an old school egg grader and a big fat goose egg.

local grower local buyer 2010
And for a parting shot, here's a closeup shot of the brick of Shellbark sharp chevre Pete created. This pesto-tomato-chevre brick is as delicious as it is gorgeous. It's almost a shame to break the brick for serving, but then again, it would be a waste to have it for art's sake so it was eagerly eaten by all those who passed by.

I missed last year's event, but I'd be stupid to miss it next year. I've never heard of an event like this before and I'm not sure an event like this, at this scale, is done in other cities. I'd love to hear about it happening in NYC, DC, Chicago, Boston, LA, SF, Seattle, Portland and elsewhere, but I have no idea. Anybody know? If not, it should be done. If there are people in areas outside of the Philly area who want to do this, get on it. Gather up everyone on a night restaurants aren't too busy in your area, in Philly it's Monday when many eateries are closed, in a nice big space like Philly's RTM (another thing I haven't seen elsewhere is a RTM-esque spot) and have at it. Stand back and marvel as local buyers meet local producers. Good things will happen, I gua-ran-tee it.

A slideshow of the images above and more up on flickr. Click on the slideshow below to see them full screen.

EMU EGG

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

emu egg
Above is a photo of real, unfossilized, non-dinosaur eggs in 2009 (yeah, I didn't get around to posting until the next round of eggs came in this year). They come from the emu, a huge, flightless bird native to Australia. But these eggs came from a Boody Emu Ranch in Sewell, NJ – about 30 minutes south of Philly. The eggs can be found at Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. Now, in that photo, there's no true sense of scale to the photo. Sure there's the words 'eat me' inscribed on the shell of the particularly chalkboard-green one like it's some kind of Easter time Valentine heart or something, but there's no 3" piece of yellow chalk next to it. Well, they're about 9" from tip to tip, a foot in circumference and they're heavier than they look roughly 1lbs – 1.6lbs apiece.

emu egg
Here's a shot of me from last year taken by my friend Thad. You can get a sense of scale from this shot. From a distance, and close up, they look like giant avocados. The color will range from a lighter chalkboard-green to an almost black green. The texture will vary from smooth to deeply pebbled. Apparently, each emu lays a particular looking egg so the farmers can identify which eggs were laid by which bird, pretty cool! These emu eggs are roughly equivalent to 8 – 10 regular chicken eggs, so, you're looking at brunch for 4 with one egg.

But this egg will taste a little different than your average farm fresh egg with their bright orange yolks. Emus have a different diet so they're going to have a different taste and look. The emu egg isn't as rich as the other eggs at the Farmstand from Meadow Run, Natural Meadows (my favorite are the rainbow dozens), Lancaster Farm Fresh… The yolk to white ratio is crazy – the yolks are HUGE! The ratio is closer to 50-50 instead of roughly 1/4 – 1/3 yolk to 3/4 – 2/3 white. The whites of the emu eggs are thicker as they have less water content – this will make for fluffier eggs.

emu egg yolk
And there you go, an emu egg cracked into one of those large soup mugs with my hand and a quarter for scale. That sucker is GIGANTIC. The yolk is roughly the size of a donut. What in the world does one do with such a large egg? You can make a serious frittata or omelets. Make a custard or some quiche. Bake a cake. Messy is terrified of the gigantic eggs and refuses to go near them.

emu egg
A closeup shot so you can see the texture of the eggs.

A gigantic emu egg can be yours for $10 at Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. They're going for $30 at Whole Foods in NYC according to Serious Eats NY. Get them before spring settles in (can you remember ground without snow on it?!) as they'll stop laying and that'll be it for emu eggs until next March. If you want one for Easter, don't worry, grab one now. The shells are so thick that they'll last for months on your counter unrefrigerated and a good 6 months in your fridge. What makes eggs go rotten are actually hairline cracks in the shells. Thicker shells mean hairline cracks don't let air into the inside of the egg so no rotting! And if you're feeling especially adventurous, you can blow out the inside of the egg and save the egg for art like these people.

Fair Food Farmstand Grand Opening

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

fair food farmstand grand opening
So we've been open for a week and change and now it was time for the official Grand Opening Ceremony of Fair Food Farmstand complete with a homemade, local "ribbon" made by the RTM staff. Above is Fair Food Executive Director Ann Karlen cutting the ribbon with the largest pair of scissors I've ever seen in my life. Behind her are some of the farmers who make what we do possible and to the right of the photo are some of the staff and volunteers who keep things running smoothly.

fair food farmstand grand opening
Fellow lover of food and blogger Bob estimated the crowd to be about 200 people and given that he's a former reporter, I'll take him on his word. There were tons of people packed into the mid-12th St side entryway extending up a few stalls and stretching into the aisle by Carmen's and Olympic Gyro (whose stool I climbed up on to take this shot).

fair food farmstand grand opening
General Manager of RTM, Paul Steinke, got up and said a few words about the market and the ever-growing relationship with Fair Food. Everyone's come a long way in the last 6 years or so. A representative from the Department of Agriculture made the trip from DC to say a few words. They've been integral in promoting local food throughout the US recently. I'll save my political commentary on the Cabinet appointee for another time. Karen Randal, Director of Business Attraction, from the Mayor's Office also spoke about the local food scene.

fair food farmstand grand opening
Keynote speaker for the day was Marion Nestle, author and professor on all things food. She was in town for a conference and came by to commend the Market and Fair Food for their accomplishments. She lauded the crowd for coming out to celebrate the grand opening of a local food institution in such grand numbers and saw before her eyes the future of food in the United States. Above is the always dapper Steinke speaking with Nestle after the ceremony.

fair food farmstand grand opening
It was cool to see tons of media at the event. Here's a KYW reporter talking to my co-worker Genevieve about identifying good corn while Ann is being interviewed by Fox29 or ABC6 right behind her.

fair food farmstand grand opening
And here's a lady who was integral in the founding of Fair Foods: Judy Wicks. Steinke and Randal recognized her from the podium earlier and thanked her for her work at White Dog and beyond. Her impact on sustainable business is nationwide and it's pretty cool to have her in Philly.

fair food farmstand grand opening
Staffers new and old were at the opening to see how far the project has come. Speaking to Naestle to the right is former manager of the Farmstand Emily Teel and to the left is current manager Sarah Cain. I was thinking about getting a big old group shot, but there was so much going on with people actually working on top of networking, I thought it would hurt the vibe.

fair food farmstand grand opening
And here's new Farmstand GM Seth Kalkstein, formerly of DiBruno Brothers, catching up with Steinke during the opening madness. Seth will be bringing a little more big business savvy to the Farmstand in the coming months and years.

fair food farmstand grand opening
Here's KYW's reporter speaking with Sue Miller of Birchrun Hills Farm who makes an amazing blue cheese and a Highland Alpine which she has in her hand. And there's the representative from the USDA peeking into the frame behind her.

fair food farmstand grand opening
It was awesome to see a ton of regular customers come out for the grand opening. The Farmstand wouldn't exist without people committed to buying quality, local products. If you haven't stopped by yet, come on down. We'll be open 7 days a week starting this Monday. Bigger photos in this flickr set.

Also there was uwishunu. Bob's put up his post on the event as well.

Fair Food Farmstand
M – Sat: 8a – 6p
Su: 9a – 5p
215.627.2029
Reading Terminal Market
12th & Arch Sts